Moparts Tech Archive

Automatic Trans.

Valve Bodies ?'s

Boydz
Moparts Member
Posts: 257
From: Chicago , IL , US
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 04-08-2002 01:14 PM

Are these any good ?
Anyone using it ?
I like the idea of keeping my stock Slapstick and was thinking about getting one of these.
check it out about 1/2 way down he page
http://www.turboaction.com/newproducts.html

Are the shifts pretty firm ?
especially 2nd to 3rd ?
Thanx
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 04-08-2002 02:43 PM

I am using a Cheetah full manual forward/SP pattern VB with a Hurst Quarter Stick, works great.
I like being able to go from third to neutral.
Got to be easy going into third, easy to go from 2nd to neutral. Once you get the feel it's no problem.
Troy
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tboomer
Moparts Member
Posts: 491
From: Iowa USA
Registered: Feb 2002
posted 04-08-2002 04:56 PM

Boydz....I run a Cheetah in my 64 Polara drag car....It is the reverse one. I had a Tranzact in there and it was a pile of crap!!
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CrAlt
Moparts Member
Posts: 2036
From: CT Posts: 45,909
Registered: May 2000
posted 04-08-2002 05:00 PM

Anyone running one on a street/strip car? If i cant get the bugs worked out my transgo TF3 manual VB kit im going to get one of these.
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 04-08-2002 05:32 PM

My ride is/was a street/strip daily driver before I pulled the motor last fall, should be back on the road in about 4wks.
Yes, the shifts are firm, 2-3 is brutal! Some of that may be overlap.
While motor is out, I have gone thru trans w'new frictions, seals, etc... also added extra springs in front piston and a 4.2 lever to ease the 2-3 shift some. Had 9 springs and a 5.0 lever.
Troy
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dodgeboy
Moparts Member
Posts: 320
From: Des Moines,Iowa, USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 04-08-2002 05:39 PM

Don't know how the forward pattern feals but the Cheetah reverse pattern shifts hard 1-2 & 2-3 (I like it) Have on in my '78 4x4 W/35" tires and it will bark 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Also if you get the reverse pattern your slap stick is useless, so if you want to keep the slap stick go with forward pattern.
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Bad340fish
Moparts Member
Posts: 125
From: Tulsa, OK
Registered: Apr 2002
posted 04-08-2002 05:45 PM

I am running the reverse pattern in my car. With a 8" converter it takes the harshness out of the shifts alot. The shifts are QUICK. Tach drops hard and fast as soon as you touch the lever. I love how the box came with POSITEVLY NOT FOR STREET USE stamped all over it...that just means its perfect for the street. It goes with the slicks I drive around on lol
Clark
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moparjoe20
Moparts Member
Posts: 584
From: Tampa,Fl,USA
Registered: Jun 2001
posted 04-08-2002 05:45 PM

If the SP Cheetah shifts anything like the reverse pattern Cheetah I was using before the shifts are extremely hard- I loved it! I used that valve body in a '67 Valiant with a 360 , 727 , and 3.23(?) gears with 205/75/14 radials and it would spin for 60-75 feet on the 1-2 shift and 40-50 feet on the 2-3 shift , it was a blast on the street. In normal driving it will chirp the tires hard when you shift it and the more gas you give it the harder it will spin.
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Dart340W2
Moparts Member
Posts: 707
From: Clinton Twp Michigan
Registered: Nov 2001
posted 04-08-2002 09:27 PM

I'm with bad340fish on this one. Just wanted to add I got my 727 trans used with the t/a manual valve body, etc. I had it freshened by a friend and its been in the car for 5 years street & strip. Can't beat the $400 total investment! My 8" Coan converter was almost $900 though.
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an11sec70cuda
Moparts Member
Posts: 523
From: Marion, SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2001
posted 04-08-2002 09:32 PM

im running the reverse manual T/A valve body, shifts are awesome, will make you spill your coffee, lol. mine will screech the 28x10.5 ET Drag slicks on the 1-2 shift at the track. real fun on the street too. im using the hurst 1/4 stick shifter, love that thing too.
chip
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slantzilla
Moparts Member
Posts: 851
From: lyons.il.USA
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 04-08-2002 10:10 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I use a reverse Cheetah on the street. It doesn't shift incredibly hard, but it does shift lightning quick.
IP: Logged

mrsmallblock
New Member
Posts: 84
From: dillsburg, pa
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 04-09-2002 12:24 AM

I use the Cheetah sp valvebody in my 67 dart drag car. it is awesome. i like to use neutral because i have aluminum rods in my motor. the transmission shifts very positive but not insanely hard like the rp valve bodies. i am happy with it.
howard
mrsmallblock
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CrAlt
Moparts Member
Posts: 2036
From: CT Posts: 45,909
Registered: May 2000
posted 04-09-2002 12:39 AM

Whats with no engine braking in 1st? how does that work? You down shift to 1st and _____ happens? nothing till BANG it grabs 1st again?
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 04-09-2002 06:23 AM

CrAlt, "Whats with no engine braking in 1st? how does that work? You down shift to 1st and _____ happens? nothing till BANG it grabs 1st again?"
I was kind of concerned about that also until I started driving it. W/my 493, I hit second pretty quick any way, no matter how I'm driving it. Never in first very long.
Driving in first gear is kind of like riding a bike, pedal the bike/push the gas in first -you accelerate.
Let off the gas/quit pedaling-you coast, until you bring up the rpms or start pedal fast enough again to match the drive shaft/rear wheel speed.
2nd and 3rd are like a tricycle, direct drive.

You don't want to let the rpms drop while coasting and them mat the throttle.
Probably NOT good for the trans.
You need to ease back into the gas while coasting in first(I may be too cautious).
I think thats why the mfg's say NO STREET USE.
Although some people say they do it w/no problems.
Hope this helps.
Troy
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451 Jim
Moparts Member
Posts: 1440
From: Lexington Park Maryland
Registered: Dec 2000
posted 04-09-2002 08:50 AM

Some valve bodies engage the rear band in "1" for engine breaking, and some don't for quicker 1-2 shift. If your's doesn't have the rear band apply in "1", then the sprag takes all the load. That is fine unless you get on and off the gas and then back on. When you get back on it, the rollers in the sprag take a pounding. That is asking for a sprag failure.
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hemiallen
Moparts Member
Posts: 3423
From: Lodi, CA
Registered: Mar 2001
posted 04-10-2002 03:37 PM

Boydz,
A phone call will let you know the standard pattern valve body REQUIRES a kickdown linkage. I called on this several months ago, and the mopar friendly tech said the new foreward valvebody is better for 2-3 shifts than the reverse OLD ones, their technology is better.
Give them a call.
ALLEN
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Boydz
Moparts Member
Posts: 257
From: Chicago , IL , US
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 04-10-2002 03:47 PM

From What I understand from the link I posted above is there is no kickdown linkage required because its Manual but with a standard shift pattern. They also do make a regular hipo VB that requires a kickdown but the shifting if not Manual.
Check it out

Thanx for the headsup hemiallen

Here is the quote form TA

The CHEETAH Manual SP Valve Body is in answer to many requests for a stock pattern full manual valve body that works great and can be used with a stock Mopar slap stick shifter. This valve body will also work great with our CHEETAH SCS SHIFTER. The CHEETAH Manual SP Valve Body has no engine compression braking in first gear. No kickdown linkage required. Instant neutral from the high gear position. Solid and instant shifts will bring great performance and longevity to your 1966-92 non-lockup Torqueflite "727" or "904" transmission. Place your orders now.
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John Russo
Moparts Member
Posts: 1837
From: Portsmouth, VA, USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 04-10-2002 03:53 PM

www.turboaction.com
The "Pro-Street" Automatic Shift VB, P/N 17676 REQUIRES a kickdown linkage.

The Cheetah Manual SP Valvebody, P/N 17680 DOES NOT REQUIRE a kickdown linkage. This VB is a full manual unit, no auto shift features, no engine braking in 1st, and a forward pattern.

John
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A-body-guy
Moparts Member
Posts: 376
From: mass
Registered: Apr 2002
posted 04-10-2002 04:16 PM

Sounds great how much does cost and how much do you think to pay someone to put it in my car, use to run 13.2@107 with 3.23 gears use to go through the traps in 2 gear because i was slow close to the line it took longer for my car to shift from 2 to 3rd than to run it through in 2 gear lost 2 races waiting for the drive shift i know i was not making power up there either 27.4 tire dia was like 6600 valve float.
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451 Jim
Moparts Member
Posts: 1440
From: Lexington Park Maryland
Registered: Dec 2000
posted 04-10-2002 09:49 PM

A-body guy, you need to get quotes from a local installer.
Everyone, don't confuse the shifting performace of a full manual reverse valve body with a standard pattern one. They are completely different and should not be compared. Sort of like "B" big block intakes and "RB" intakes, not the same parts!
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CrAlt
Moparts Member
Posts: 2036
From: CT Posts: 45,909
Registered: May 2000
posted 04-10-2002 11:26 PM

If its just a swap then it isnt all that hard to put in.
You drop the pan, undo the black bolts (dont even have to take off the filter). Undo the linkage. Spin the drive shaft by hand till the park lever drops out then to put it back in just do the whole thing backwords.
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Pozest
Moparts Member
Posts: 232
From: Hamilton,Ohio
Registered: Dec 2001
posted 04-11-2002 12:33 AM

I love my cheetah in my 72 Dodge Demon 360.
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SolidTappet
New Member
Posts: 41
From: garden grove,ca
Registered: Nov 2001
posted 04-11-2002 01:51 AM

I just recently bought a Transgo TF-3 shift kit, with the hurst quarter stick,how's the tf-3?Can't wait to get mine installed
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CrAlt
Moparts Member
Posts: 2036
From: CT Posts: 45,909
Registered: May 2000
posted 04-11-2002 01:59 AM

Im havnig tons of fun with the TF3...

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Bad340fish
Moparts Member
Posts: 125
From: Tulsa, OK
Registered: Apr 2002
posted 04-11-2002 07:07 PM

A-body, its a real easy swap really. Do just as the above post mentioned. I would recomend torquing them to the OEM specs(100 in lbs) just to be safe. I have moved mine around 5 or 6 times and never had any troubles on the installs. It has to have been one of the best mods I did to my car. How much are they now?? I think mine was like $125 a few years ago
Clark
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info provided by members listed above

Installing TA manual vb questions

69BCDA
New Member
Posts: 5
From: Garden Grove
Registered: Nov 2002
posted 11-16-2002 08:26 PM

Me and a buddy are going to start the installation of the vb tomorow morning..first time working on any trans...we will be doing this in my garage...anyone got any tips on installing it? also,is it easily installable with doing it that way compared to on a lift?sorry for the ignorant questions..
Kristian

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Chris2421
Moparts Member
Posts: 132
From:
Registered: Sep 2002
posted 11-16-2002 08:52 PM

EASY!! Just follow the instructions that came with the valve body.Adjust the bands and use a deep pan.That's it.

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rrsbdh
Moparts Member
Posts: 2110
From: Decatur Alabama
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 11-16-2002 09:03 PM

I posted this once not long ago too. My printer did'nt work that well that day but the only problem mentioned was getting the park rod out and back in. They say sometimes its easy sometimes its hard. One other comment from CD made me think though. He had a sprag let go on him and thinks it would have lived had he not had the manual valve body or if he had a prepped trans with an aluminum front drum and bolt in sprag. I have those things in my 69 Bee transmission that I had built with a manual valve body but they are not in this 70 RR transmission I have. After seeing photos of what his did and thinking about what might have happened if he had'nt had a trans shield made me deciede to put in the new auto/manual valve body from Turbo action that they say is about as fast in a shift as their full manual. I have the same trans shield CD has but I don't wanna rebuilt the trans or buy a new shield LOL. Best of luck to you.

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Don1
Moparts Member
Posts: 4785
From: Valley City, ND. USA
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 11-16-2002 09:18 PM

This is why they are recommended for competition only and not on the street. They have no braking in 1st gear decelleration and can explode a sprag if decellerting in 1st and reapplying the throttle. For teh street i would use the forward pattern valve body. I have one in the street car and I believe that it is as quick as that full manual. The advantage of the full manual reverse pattern is that when shifting up in competition you don't have to worry about over shifting and hitting N

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Valve body install

rrsbdh
Moparts Member
Posts: 2110
From: Decatur Alabama
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 11-12-2002 01:55 AM

Guys my 70 dual quad RR should fire up in a few days. I put in the radiator today and I only like a few other details. I have a deep Aluminum trans pan I'm gonna install before I drive it after the cam breaks in on the stands but I think since I've got the pan off I might as well stick in a new valve body.
Would any of you mind walking me thru this as I have'nt done one before. Also on this subject what are your opinions. Turbo Action forward manual valve body or their new fast shifting auto/manual valve body? Thanks

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nhra mark
Moparts Member
Posts: 157
From: St. Charles, MO
Registered: Apr 2002
posted 11-12-2002 09:47 PM

If it's not a trans brake vb, you shouldn't need to drill anything. Remove the pan, remove the filter. Remove the shifter cable or rod and the shifter bracket from the trans. Remove the perimeter bolts around the current valve body. You will have to wiggle it around a little to get the parking pawl disengaged. Depending on whats included with your new vb you may have to transfer your old park rod to the new vb. The tricky part is getting that park rod back in place. Sometimes it slides right back in and other times you'll have to rotate the driveshaft or rear tires back and forth till it drops in. Be sure to adjust your shift linkage when done. You will get some fairly clear instructions from Turbo Action, so get some wrenches and dive in there, it's not that bad.

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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1481
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 11-13-2002 06:27 AM

rrsbdh, sounds like nhra mark covered it pretty well, especialy the tip about the park rod and twisting the drive shaft(IIRC I had to do that to get it both in and out).
I am using the forward pattern Vbody and really like it. No low gear engine braking is not an issue for me. Seems like I did more shifting back when the truck was an underpowered 318/full auto trans rig than I do now .
P.S. don't get curious and push on any of the accumalator pistons etc..when you have the valve body off the trans unless you want to take a tranny fluid shower, been there done that .
Troy

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carl
Moparts
Posts: 8644
From: Ohio
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-13-2002 07:17 AM

The service manual instructions are fairly detailed and are in the tech area in the trans sections.
carl

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Don Oremus
New Member
Posts: 77
From: Wisconsin
Registered: Apr 2002
posted 11-13-2002 07:57 AM

Hello
Like Mark said remove 10 bolts and wiggle out. To install shift the valve body to man lo, park rod to the rear, then install. If it doesn't want to go put your finger into the park hole while turning the driveshaft 'til you feel the parking pawl lock in. Then try it again.

As far as valve bodies go, if it is going to be driven on the street, go with an automatic style valve body, it is easier on the trans, and I feel it is a cop out to install a manual since most people don't want to or can't figure out the TV (kickdown) linkage. Good luck with it.

Don

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Since I've got to pull the tranny pan anyway

MoparPhreak
New Member
Posts: 29
From: West Central Ohio
Registered: Oct 2002
posted 11-08-2002 05:20 PM

I've got a 73 Challenger, 340, 727, 3.23 SG, that leaks a red river of tranny fluid after sitting a few days. When I first got it, I thought it was the pan gasket that was leaking, so I pulled the pan, took out the valve body, took out the accumulator spring, and cranked in the line pressure spring to 1 9/32", changed the filter, installed a new gasket, and put an extra tranny cooler on.
The 1-2 shifts are much better now, it'll chirp the tires under full throttle with the selector in "D", but if you pull it down into low and shift manually from 1-2 it feels like it actually slows down a little, like something isn't releasing fast enough, and the 2-3 shifts are too mushy for my tastes.

The red river is still flowing though. I thought it was the front seal that was leaking because when I looked underneath the car it was dripping off of the bellhousing like it was coming from that area, but, when I took off the inspection cover there was no tranny fluid inside there, which is cool because I don't have to pull the tranny, but I still didn't know where the leak was for sure, because everything under the car from the bellhousing back had tranny fluid on it, so last weekend I cleaned everything with carb cleaner and started it up, put it in neutral and let it idle till it warmed up but I still couldn't see where the leak was coming from.

I went out today and looked, and it looks like it's leaking around either where the selector shaft goes through the case, or possibly it's the seal between the kickdown shaft and the selector, either way it's gotta come apart.

I'm getting ready to drive over to Jegs tonight and pick up a Turbo Action Pro Street Automatic valve body #17676 which is supposed to have a much better 2-3 shift and I'm hoping it will improve manual shifting between gears. I'm also thinking of getting a MP chrome pan while I'm there. Is there anything else I can do to tweak it while I have the pan off? I've got 727 parts from various 60's-early 70's transmissions that I've taken apart. What is the good stuff that I can swap/modify while I have it apart? I'm gonna start on it tomorrow morning/afternoon since it's supposed to be nice out

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swlabr
Moparts Member
Posts: 715
From: chicago suburbs
Registered: Feb 2000
posted 11-08-2002 05:57 PM

Check the filler tube O ring !!! Bet thats whats leaking !

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Andrewh
Moparts Member
Posts: 709
From: allen,tx, usa
Registered: Feb 2001
posted 11-08-2002 05:59 PM

If it is the shifter seal you don't have to take off the pan. Up to you though.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdsusp05.html#2392

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John Kunkel
Moparts Member
Posts: 2640
From: Rio Linda, CA, USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-08-2002 08:09 PM

Your improved 1-2 upshifts are the result of cranking up the line pressure, removing the accumulator spring did nothing of benefit.
The lazy manual 1-2 is from the dragging rear band. It won't release rapidly without modifications.

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MoparPhreak
New Member
Posts: 29
From: West Central Ohio
Registered: Oct 2002
posted 11-09-2002 01:53 AM

I'm back from the road trip to Jegs (little over 4 hour round trip) and I've got the new valve body in my sweaty little hands. I didn't get the MP pan because it wasn't in stock at the store I was at, and it was about 15 minutes before closing time, so I didn't have time to drive over to the other store and get one. I did get a drain plug though.
The Turbo Action valve body comes with a HEAVY duty spring for the rear(low/reverse) servo. The instructions are pretty straight forward and easy to understand, with pictures showing where everything's at. It also shows two people wrestling that spring back into place, but I'm thinking that it's going to be a pita to do it with the car up on jackstands. Seems like I read an article where they used a bottle jack and a big ol socket or something to compress the spring retainer and re-install the snap ring. The fsm shows using an engine valve spring compressor but the one I've got doesn't work in quite the same way the factory tool does (factory service manuals are invaluable!).

swlabr: I re-checked around the dipstick tube and it's still clean and dry.

Andrewh: I know I could spend 25 bucks on a special tool to change the seal, and I would if I thought I'd use it more than once, but it's not that big of a deal to pull the valve body, I've done it enough times that I've learned how to only take a quick ATF shower, instead of a full body bath, anyway it's a good excuse to upgrade:P

John Kunkel: I thought that the accumulator spring acted as a kind of a buffer, or shock absorber type thing to smooth the shift. I've read a couple different places where they say to take it out and pitch it, and the instructions from Turbo Action say to do the same. What is the purpose of the spring, and how does it affect the way it shifts? I'm curious now. I figured the lazy 1-2 shifts were caused by something dragging or being out of sync, but I wasn't sure exactly what it was. I've got an understanding of how the mechanical things operate, but I've got some studying to do before I fully understand exactly how everything in the valve body/hydraulics work.

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John Kunkel
Moparts Member
Posts: 2640
From: Rio Linda, CA, USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-09-2002 01:36 PM

I thought that the accumulator spring acted as a kind of a buffer, or shock absorber type thing to smooth the shift.

So does 99% of the Mopar world, it's a myth spread by everyone, even magazine gurus and transmission tech lines.

I've read a couple different places where they say to take it out and pitch it, and the instructions from Turbo Action say to do the same.

Whoever says to pitch it for shift improvement is wrong, plain and simple. If there's any other reason to pitch it (other than a 1 ounce weight saving) I can't imagine what it would be. It serves a purpose.

What is the purpose of the spring, and how does it affect the way it shifts?

The spring has no effect on shifting, it's sole purpose is to position the accumulator piston when there is no pressure on the system. When the trans is placed in a forward gear, pressure acts on the piston and pushes it against the spring which cushions the application of the rear clutch and protects the clutch spring. This is done when the car is at a standstill.
Removing the spring at the same time that the line pressure is increased often serves a double death sentence to the clutch Belleville spring. Clutch failures have been known to occur immediately after the mods, it's happened to a couple of people on this board.

The confusion comes about because of the known fact that the accumulator cushions the 1-2 upshift. The accumulator cushions the upshift hydraulically, the spring plays no part in it.
The presence of a spring in a component that is intended to cushion makes it natural to assume that the spring is the cushioning agent. Like many other assumptions, it's wrong and the myth is born.

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MoparPhreak
New Member
Posts: 29
From: West Central Ohio
Registered: Oct 2002
posted 11-11-2002 04:26 AM

John Kunkel: Thanks for the info. Sometimes it seems like the more I learn, the less I actually know I'm gonna build a big block tranny in the future and I really like the idea of rollerizing it
I got the valve body in. I thought I would have more trouble changing the low/reverse servo spring than what I did, but it went pretty good.

There's a strut that goes between the band and the lever that you have to take out in order to let the lever swing out of the way, so you can change springs. There's not much room to get the strut out, certainly not enough room to get your fingers in, so you have to use a couple of screwdrivers to dislodge the strut, I had trouble at first, then I re-read the instructions and looked at the picture showing how to do it, crawled back under the car and after a couple more trys, it popped right out.

I removed the snap ring, spring retainer, spring, and piston then I cleaned and inspected everything for cracks, excessive wear, etc. While I had the pison out I decided to modify it to make it solid by adding a spacer between the piston plug and the piston like it shows here http://pages.moparpages.com/440Jim/website/id4trans.html

I disassembled the piston and took the plug and the spring with me to the hardware store to find something to use for a spacer. I found that hole in a 7/16" washer fit over the piston plug but wouldn't fit inside the spring. The hole in the washer also fit over a 1/2" bolt pretty good, so I got four 7/16" washers and a 1/2" bolt and nut, put the washers on the bolt, and tightened the nut down so it clamped the washers together good and tight, then I chucked up the nut in a lathe and turned down the o.d. of the washers to fit inside the spring. I imagine that if you didn't have access to a lathe you could grind the o.d. down, or get washers that fit inside the spring and drill out the i.d. to fit over the piston plug.

I ended up only using 3 modified washers when I put the piston assembly back together. I used a ball joint socket and a hydraulic bottle jack to carefully compress the new heavier spring back into the case and hold it while I put the snap ring back in place. Worked like a charm. It took a couple trys to get the strut back in place using screwdrivers, but it finally popped back in. I snugged the band adjuster down and backed it off 3 turns per the instructions. I hope this is still the proper adjustment with a modified piston.

I put the new valve body and filter in and drilled the pan and put a drain plug kit in it, then I sealed everything up, checked the front band adjustment, reconnected the linkage, and filled it up with "Type F" fluid while idling in neutral, then ran it through the gears while it was still up on jackstands to get fluid circulated through everything before I took it out for a test drive.

I put it in reverse to back out of the driveway and BAM! it goes into gear rather harshly (or maybe there was an Emeril Lagasse under the hood and he got scared and jumped into the fan), I'm wondering if this is a result of modifying the piston, or if it's just the way the new valve body works, either way I don't particularly care for it.

I put it in drive and start cruising around town letting it shift on it's own. The 1-2 shift is a little firmer than it was before and the 2-3 shift is quicker/firmer than it was. Under light throttle it seems to get into 3rd gear sooner than it did. Nothing exploded or burst into flames so I headed out of town.

Under full throttle, with the selector in "D", the 1-2 shift is about as firm as it was before, or maybe a tiny bit less firm than it was. The 2-3 shift is much firmer/quicker than it was, it's not quite as firm as the 1-2 shift, but it's significantly better than it was.

I stopped, pulled it down in low, and shifted manually. The 1-2 shift is vastly improved, it's quicker, firmer, and no more dragging rear band! The 2-3 shift is also quicker/firmer. Then it started raining, so I took it easy. :P

It finally functions more like I think it should. I mean, why have a cool Slap Stik shifter in a car if the tranny doesn't work as well as the shifter? I would like for the 2-3 shifts to be a bit firmer, . In hindsight, I wish I would have swapped the kickdown servo for an earlier solid one. I'm pretty sure I've got a few laying around, but I didnt think of it till I had it back together. I was in kind of a hurry because the sky was getting dark and I wanted to get it sealed up before it started raining.

I've driven it around between downpours for the last couple days. I went to Wally World, came out, hit the key, and nada, no click, nothing! I popped the hood and checked the battery connection and it was ok. Headlights worked, so I tried putting it in neutral and still no signs of life. I shorted out the solenoid and it cranked over, so I turned on the ignition and shorted it out again and it fired up. I drove it home and parked it. I figure it's the switch on the transmission I'm sure glad I added the drain plug now.

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John Kunkel
Moparts Member
Posts: 2640
From: Rio Linda, CA, USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-11-2002 02:35 PM

Everything is a compromise, the rigidized rear servo piston and the heavy spring make for a quicker band release on the 1-2 upshift but the two mods place extra strain on the rear band and its anchor linkage. The heavy spring also strains the tin retainer, sometimes beyond its limits. If you want the parts to live it's essential that the rear band adjustment be kept up, if the free play becomes excessive the piston slams the components even harder and there's more chance of breakage.
Many folks (myself included) drill a 3/32" hole in the piston to ease the shock of application and to speed the release even more.

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