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Rear Axle

Sure Grip - cone type

In order to "rebuild" it you have to take it apart (which it sounds like it already is), then machine .030 off the face of each cone (the face that meets the case). When you put it back together, just put some .030 shims between the cones and the spider gears. Pretty cheap to do plus it saves you from buying a new sure-grip unit.

you machine the bottom of the cone, so instead of the cone bottoming out in the case, it will ride on the sides again alowing it to have some level of lock up again,

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Sure Grip - clutch type

If it's a clutch type sure grip (741/2 casting), there will be "pins" in the hole where the axles go in. I've seen sure grips at swap meets that are missing the pins. They might give you a little hassle finding some but they are avail.

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I just asked DocDiff about the 8 3/4 clutch sequence and yes it is different then the larger rear. Here is his PM he sent me:

OEM clutch pack orientation starting at clutch hub:
1. Flat plate with ears
2. Flat disc
3. Dished plate with ears**
3. Dished disc**
4. Thin flat plate with ears

** Install with ID contacting outer plates (away from clutch hub).

Pre lube clutch plates with straight friction modifier additive.

Torque case-half bolts to 50 lbs with red loc-tite.

8 3/4

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