Moparts Tech Archive
Crank Q's and I.D.Crankshaft photo for tech archive
This is a photo I put together to aid in the positive identification of cast and forged cranks. Hopefully the illustration will be more definate than a text only description.
Heres a pic of the bal for the steel and cast crank 440's.
Pic donated by C-body.
Drilled Crankshaft Journal Question
I have 5 forged steel, 3.75" stroke, big block crankshafts sitting in front of me. The 3 that are known 440 cranks have a 1" hole drilled in the 1st and last journal about 2.8" deep, ie not all the way through.
The one that is claimed to be a 413 crank has the holes drilled all the way through, and the counterweights don't seem to be as long (degrees around the crank), and it has some "wings" on the 2nd and 3rd journals.
The last one is unknown, but could be a 426 wedge crank. The counter weights seem the same as the 440, but the 1" hole is drilled all the way through.
Can anyone shed some light on this?
nice collection you have there jim. just to add, i have a 413 crank that has through holes on the first and last journals. and it did have "wings" i got holes drilled in the other 2 journals and lightened all the rod throws.
edit: as for the lighting holes i've seen em both ways, doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason
jim , how many hours was the crank in the machine ? my shop had my MP crank that i got from mancini in the lathe for 10 hours to cut it down , the counterweights started at 7.5ish
Nice collection of cranks! I have both 413 adn 426W cranks and they all have the little wings. Which I believe are actually forging sprues but I'm not positive.
451 boy, Wow, only 1 hour; you are the man! I agree getting a good ridgid setup is the key, I haven't pushed it too hard so it takes me longer than that. And I also spend 20 minutes or so putting 1/8" chamfers around the #2 and #4 bearing positions for extra clearance. 10 hrs was crazy.
4.25" stroke cranks?
Who sells 'em?
I don't think this will help much but at least I will bump the thread back up for you.
Paul is the guy that Hughes and Muscle Motors were getting their 4.25 cranks from to sell.
There are a few guys here on Moparts that have a crank from Pauls, I think streetwise is one of them.
Another idea is to buy an Eagle 4.150 crank and have it offset ground and end up with a BB Chevy size journal.
Fuel motor cranks do not have a flex plate/flywheel mount the same as a 383/440 crankshaft. Why is that?? The fuel cranks use a mount going back to the old 392 hemi engines. When they switched to the later himi a lot of the teams had the old hardware, so the cranks were and continue to be made with that mount style. A register ring will have to be installed on the crank, and then end will most likely have to be counterbored for the converter hub. This can be done by several of the crank mfgs but will add to the cost of the crank.
Better get it magnafluxed. I've had 4 cranks of that type, and all of them were cracked. Only one had cracks that weren't fatal. Oh, and these were all alcohol motor cranks, far easier on them than fuel.
I also got a 4.25"/2.00"BBC journal Welded stroker from Paul Savadin at Paul's crank shop. It is a work of art, his machining and attention to detail is second to none. The 4.25" is actually stronger and lighter than the 4.15"/2.375" and required LESS welded material to finish. Paul's cranks were also indexed and precision phased as part of his machining, far beyond factory specs.
Paul was very ill the last time we spoke and I have been unable to reach him in over a year. DRAM's friend Larry down in Fla does excellent machine work and is a friend of Pauls's, but I can't remember his shop name off-hand. Forged cranks should all be drilled for pilot bushings and have STD 6 bolt flanges.
Crower forged #95166 is $2000.00 plus balance or a billet for $2700.00 plus balance. I think both are 8 bolt Hemi flange and 2 keyway snout for blower applications. www.crower.com and www.callies.com are some places if you want stock Mopar size journal with no welding. Beware of the prices.
will a 4.500 stroke crank fit in a 440 block?
If so what are the mods needed.
I believe it can be made to work if you go to an external oil pickup (a stock style pickup gets hit by the crank at that kind of stroke), but I wouldn't do it. At the power levels that sort of thing can generate, you're really asking for trouble with a stock block. I'd much sooner do a 3.915 or 4.15" stroke in either a 440 or a 400 block, preferably a 400 block.
If it won't have to be crazy, then go with the 400 block and the small crank. You'll be able to make plenty of power with that, and won't have to worry about the block as much. The 400 block can take more power than the 440. So, why go to the trouble to shoehorn in a 4.5" stroke crank into a weaker block so you can make the same or less power and have somewhat of a hand grenade to boot? Seems like a lot of money to do essentially nothing.