Moparts Tech Archive
Bleeding Brakes & MCgravity-bleed brakes?
I remember a while back someone described bleeding brakes by filling the reservoir, cracking all 4 bleed valves, and leaving the car overnight. Does this really work? Do I have the procedure right? The system is empty right now and I have to drop it off at the muffler shop tomorrow - probably won't have someone to help me bleed them the regular way.
You have the basic idea right, but if you open all four, and leave it overnight you will have an empty mastercylinder, and a lot of fluid on the ground.
Then starting with the wheel farthest away from the master, open the bleed valve till it begins to dribble out. when you get a constant dribble, no air, or bubbles. tighten the bleeder.
recheck the resivour, then move to the next closet wheel, and repeat for all four.
After you have all of them done, you can just crack all four at the same time and let them dribble a little more.
dont forget to spray everthing down with brake parts cleaner to keep it from corroding
usually the order is pass rear, drivers rear, pass front, drivers front.
this works really well, just did it with my truck this past weekend, now my face almost hits the windshield.
(I found out that the rear shoes were not adjusted properly, and were not contacting the drums, now I have to retrain myself on how to stop with the truck)
If you leave it overnight, it will probably drain the reservoir. then you would be back to square one...actually worse than square one, because the MC would have air in it too.
of course make sure you're using compatible fluid, the newer the better. I prefer Castrol LMA fluid... good stuff.
And make sure you use a good flare wrench and if the bleeder has not been done for a while it's not a bad idea to use a bit of penetrating lube on the bleeder prior to attacking it... there ain't much there to begin with.
I agree with the above guys on the procedure.. easy to do,, just keep an eye on it. Don't walk away thinking this will take hours.
And last but not least.. keep it away from your paint.
Even better than a good flare wrench, is a good 6 point socket or wrench (5/16 or 3/8 depending on your bleeder)
But a good shot of PB Blaster or similar is always a good idea.
Cool! I will try the bleed-down method. The calipers are a year old and rear cylinders are brand new.
If the fronts are a year old and you didn't mess with the lines to the front brakes they shouldn't have goten any air in them. Just the rears if that is all you replaced. This would be the front portion of the master cylinder. It wouldn't hurt to check them but if you didn't crack any lines to the front they should be the same as they were before you did the rears.