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Front Suspension

'K' Frame Q's

"K" Frame/ Any Ideas?
Moparts Member
Posts: 387
Registered: Feb 2002
posted 11-14-2002 02:30 AM

Pulled the K intact from the car and with the help of an aluminum pipe a spring,ty-raps and duct tape, was able to locate the upper control arms rigidly enough to allow rolling the whole unit around on its tires. Any body ever built some type of locating bracketing, or anything else, thats of a more permanent nature? It may be some time before I get around to doing anything with it and since I am space compromised it will be residing in the back yard under a tarp. My wife, being female, will have me moving it back and forth at her whim I am sure.
While I am asking, I plan on upgrading to a big block. What are my choices? The original is for a poly-318. Schumacher adapters, later big block "K" or era correct "K" for a big block?
Thanks Wes


Moparts Member
Posts: 2102
From: Joliet IL Home of RT66 Dragstrip&Chicagoland Speedway
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-14-2002 06:52 AM

all 1963-1965 B-bodies with V8s use the same k-frame for 273-318-361-383-413-426w engines.
What is your car?64 Plymouth B-body? If
you had a sb in there thats the same k-frame
as a big block. all you need are the 2 big block steel brackets,the rubber insulators
are the same for all V8s 63-65. If you wanted to use a 66-72B-body k-frame or
70-74 E-body k-frame you could, however
you would need a different idler arm(for 68-up)and the sway bar set up gets tough (for 70and up). Engine and trans with the later k
in the 64 chassis is 1 5/8 of an inch or so
rearward.You can use any 66-72 b-body headers,oil pan,motor mounts,etc.Tight firewall clearance.

info provided by members listed above

K Frame * Interchangable or not so much

Moparts Member
Posts: 119
From: Tucson Az, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
posted 01-02-2003 09:31 PM
Is the K frame the same for a smallblock and a bigblock in the 73 and later B-Bodies? I was told that to install a bigblock in my satellite I only had to get motor mounts for a bigblock (72 and later pin style). Is this true or will I need some weird adaptor mounts to make the swap?Trent


Moparts Member
Posts: 2159
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 01-03-2003 10:33 AM
you will need to buy the schumacker conversion mounts. the k frames are different between big blocks and small blocks. i bought the mounts because they are stronger than the factory mounts. you have to modify on mount on the driver side to clear the oil pump.
IP: Logged

Quick Kurt
Moparts Member
Posts: 3153
From: Pittsburgh, Pa, USA
Registered: Jan 2002
posted 01-03-2003 12:33 PM
There are different K emebers for /6, SB, and BB for 73-81 B and R-bodies. You can use the big block K-member out of any mid-sized 73-78 B-body. The easiest place to find one is a 400 Cordoba. Then you can also get a big block radiator, acessory brackets, etc.
That's what I put in my 80 St Regis to swap in a 440:

If the Shcumacher mounts would have been avaialble back when I did the conversion, I would have used them instead. But at least I rebuilt my front suspension while I had it apart.

Schumacher Creative Services

Tubular K-frames? Please read this BEFORE you buy!

Moparts Member
Posts: 1768
From: lyons.il.USA
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 01-05-2003 01:32 PM
I am going to post my experience with buying a tubular K-frame kit, hopefuuly to help you avoid the pitfalls that I've run into with my kit. This is not an endorsement nor a slam of any manufacturer.
1. Ask lots of questions! I ran off to buy mine without asking enough questions about front end geometry, pan and header clearance, and the most important one, are there any in any working cars? Also, ask if you can speak to customers who have used the kits. I took a lot of information at face value, without checking further. If they will not give names of customers, MOVE ON!

2. If the builder makes a claim, check it out. It is his job to sell parts. Not all claims will be exactly correct.

3. Do some homework. I wnadered into this deal with a head full of half ideas and got sidetracked by flashy talk. Once again, the seller will do everything he can to convince you that his system works.

4. If the seller makes any kind of claim, get it in writing! We are buying parts here that have limited recourse in case of problems. Getting everything in writing will help in case of later problems. If he won't back his claims, WALK!

5. Warranty/Refund policy. Like I said earlier, these parts really have no warranty as such, because of the nature of their purpose. However, make sure you are clear on what the seller will do if the part does not fit, breaks in use, or does not do what they claimed. Also, remember that we are using these things in RACE cars, if they break, bad things happen.

6. Don't do like I did and convince yourself you absolutely NEED one of these things just because. I also got in a hurry because I could save $500 by buying it at a show. I could have avoided a lot of problems just by not having my head in my butt.

7. I have personally held an AJE and a DARE in my hands. These are definitely not street car pieces! I have never seen a Magnumforce, but would guess it's not really a street piece either. IMO, the AlterK-tion one is a street item.

8. Watch the boards for posts about these things. That is where I got first wind of what I was going to be into with mine.

9. ASK QUESTIONS!!! I can not stress this enough. Keep track of what you learn, and sort it out. I have gotten sixteen different answers on a lot of questions, but the truth is out there.

10. Lastly, if you are skeptical about a seller's claims, don't buy! These kits are always gonna be there if they are a good product. Don't do like me and get in a hurry.

In conclusion, I am neither endorsing nor slamming any manufacturer or seller here. This is just a guideline I have gleaned from my own experience. I could have avoided most of my problems with my kit if I had just not been in such a hurry! I bought my kit almost a year ago and just got ready to install it last month. If I had to do it all over, I would just buy a set of Wilwood brakes to lose weight and stay with the stock stuff in the suspension. I also believe that on a fast car, you would be money ahead to do an Alston front clip. Tube K-frames seem to me to be a band-aid on a bullet wound.


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