Moparts Tech Archive
Torsion Bars Install Questions69 GTS 4-spd
From: Big Lake MN USA
Registered: Oct 2001
I just learned that there is such a thing as left and right torsion bars on my 69 GTS,I took them both out when I replaced the frame and now I don't know if I mixed them up or not!!!! Mine have part numbers on the end of them but I see nothing refering to left or right(please Help)
When there is a 'pair' of parts like in this case the odd # always goes on the left or drivers side of the car and the even #'s goes to the pass side.
As Carl says but also, the torsion bars are marked L and R. There is a third ID on the bars which is the paint splotches. 2 splotches on the left, 1 on the right. That makes 3 different ways the factory marked these bars left and right. Guess they were serious about it!
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Grease seals for torsion bars
I'm helping a friend who is rebuilding the front end on a '70 Coronet R/T. He has replaced all the bushings (polygraphite except for the lca bushings, which he replaced with rubber), ball joints and inner and outer tie rods. He is reusing the stock original torsion bars. The problem he's having is with the rubber “seal” that the torsion bar passes through where the torsion bar anchors in the crossmember; the openings for the torsion bars in the replacement seals seem WAY too small for the torsion bar to pass through. He says if he tries to shove the torsion bar through the seal it will rip the hell out of it. He says it looks like it's the wrong seal. Would the seal possibly be for 6-cyl. torsion bars? (I couldn't find anything about this in the tech forum.) He says the shop manual advises packing the seal full of grease prior to installation. What the heck is up with these seals? He didn't want to order replacement seals unless the ones he has are for sure wrong for this application. Any help you guys could provide would sure be appreciated. Thanks!
Lube the seal, slide it over the torsion bar, *then* put the end of the torsion bar in the socket and push the seal over the socket.
If he's got the thick rubber (poly??) ones that came with the kit, I can feel his pain. I greased the hell out of mine & still couldn't get 'em on. I gave up & bought a set of regular ones from the dealer.
The poly ones I used were a pain. But with a dose of silicone grease and two people. One holding the bar against the ground and another pressing the seal down with a block of wood, I got them on. And that was easy compared to getting them over the crossmember. It took a while to figure out how to do it but I finally got them in. To top it off I am using the 1.14" bars. If they come out again I am going to definatly use rubber. Some of even the best poly fits poorly.
It was on a 72 duster - and rubber boots, but I cut the pouring end off a plastic bottle of "Heat" ( a round bottle, not an asymetrical shape) so that is was a funnel-like conical adapter. The cut end was large enough to fit over the end of the torsion bar. The pouring end was about 1/2 ". Used that to help stretch the 'boot' over the end of the torsion bar.
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Is there a front and rear to these? Does it matter?
Is there a front and rear to these? Does it matter?
There is a left and a right. They are marked on the end with an "L' and an "R". on the same end , there is usually a 3 digit # which is the last three of the part #. Typically, the odd # is left, and even is right. There are some heavy duty and race applications that are exceptions. There is no front or back, but most bars are installed so you can see the 3 digit # and the "L" or "R" through the cross member hex hole.
all info provided by members listed above
Torsion Bar Tool?
Does anybody have the website for the torsion bar removal tool? I think Miller tool makes it but not sure.
I have been lucky I guess. I can just get a set of vice grips on the torsion bar and whack it with a hammer and it comes right out. But my torsion bars have been in and out many times in the last few years so that may have something to do with it. Might be worth a shot before dropping the cash on a tool.
The only problem with putting vice grips on them is that the possibility of nicking or damaging the bars is higher with that method. Not a big deal if you're taking old ones out, but a bigger deal if you're putting new ones in.
Yep, Miller Special tools still has that tool available. There is a guy selling a tool very similiar to the Miller tool. I saw his ad in one of the Mopar magazines the other day. Either tool was around $80 or so.
I use the clamps that come with those spring lox kits from the auto parts stor than I clamp a vise grip over a rag right next to it and smack the grip against the clamp
Thanks for the replys. I'm really in a mess.
I've used 2 DIY type T-bar tools with success. My first version includes a 1/4" thick 8" corner brace and 1" U-bolts from a hardware store. About $10 in parts. It should be hit from the inside of the brace where I'm pointing.
Version 2 uses 1/4" flat steel I got as scrap from a steel shop and 1" cable clamps. It's a much sturdier version. Cost is about $20 in parts, but you need access to a welder.
BTW, I've been noticing how large the factory tool is and it probably works fine with the stock exhaust, but I can see definite problems if you have headers installed.
Take a pry bar and pry down on the lever that is attached to the control arm t/bar socket. It can move another 1/2" or so, allowing the socket to align with the bar, which is usually enough to let it drop right in. Good luck.
If you break the lower control arm free it may slide in easier. Just 2 or 3 free threads or play may help align it.
Miller tool# C-3728 $71.35 and still available. 1-800-801-5420. Hope that helps.
all info provided be members listed above
The pic below shows the orientation of the rear anchor in the frame for the TB
Could anyone give me some help in this area.
i'd give the heavier bars a shot.
remember there's a left and a right. also they are a spring so NO nicking or beating them up.
Oh yea.....as long as it's soft, it won't handle well. Just the way it is. Stiffen the ride, handling improves. A sway really helps too!
New bars are available here, about $120 US, & available in a variety of sizes (from about 0.8inch to 1.125 inch). Mine are, I believe, 1.0 inch.
Just put in a new set of .960 mopar performance bars one size thicker than stock restoration size better for handling,you nmust first remove upper rubber bumper, then lift car off ground from k member pull out rear spring clips, dont use vise grips, there is a special tool to bang out bars, but first loosen adjusting bolt, then bang out. remember left and right side, remember left side is drivers side when putting in new ones
1 inch bars give a very nice ride in a small block E-body.Even with KYB's and low profile tires. Don't forget a suitable sway bar too.
I've got the BB 383 bars in my 340 clone Swinger. I have it "rough adjusted", since I don't have all the body parts on it yet.
Somewhere, in the tech archives.....I'm sure Carl has installed something in the suspension section. You basically wind up the T bars, bounce the car around a little and go underneath and measure from the lower control arm to a level floor, in 2 places. There is a factory spec for this, though I can't remember what it is at the moment. Once close....take a ride, come back and double check/final tweak. You can add a little height or take it away....but once you are set on height, go get the front end properly aligned afterwards. Anytime you make an adjustment....take it for a drive, or bounce the heck outta it and remeasure.
I went one step bigger than the Hemi bars---luv them.
HEMIRR68, you might want to check the location of the original poster. DRIVER'S SIDE IS THE RIGHT SIDE IN OZ!!! Hope you didn't confuse the poor boy.
Torsion bars??? Roadrunner advise
Hi someone told me iam new to mopars that you could raise the front by turning in the torsion bars ? is this so the front end is really low on my car makes nice flat header tubes how is this done safely Thanks
clockwise raises it and counterclockwise lowers it.
Keep in mind if you crank up the torsion bars you will also need to get your front end aligned. It still beats flat headers.
Park in a level spot and measure from the front fender lip to the ground on both sides. Check the rear too. I would tighten both sides about two full turns on the wrench and see what kind of change it made. Repeat as necessary! The ruler will tell you if you are doing it unevenly.
one turn equals nothing, every car is different for some reason. one car may take 1 turn to get an inch and another may take three turns to get an inch. its all trial and error and i can gaurantee you will have to turn each side a different amount to get it level.
Once you get it at the height you want make sure you have an alignment done or say good buy to your tires.
The torsion bar adjusting bolt is in the middle of the lower control arm. tighen to raise the front end, and loosen to lower.
Throw a floor jack under the front end, so the wheels hang free. Makes it a lot easier to turn it up higher, since you are not turning the weight of the car on a single bolt then.
Measure before you jack it up, then make changes. Drive it around the block to allow it to settle, then measure again. Get both sides even before you get the alignment.
Front end rebuild
Today I disasembled the front suspension on my 69 Dodge Dart. After loosening the adjustment bolt(for the ride heigth)and removing the front bolt the torsion bars just slid out the rear by hand. Is there something that is missing that keeps the torsion bars from working there way out ? Most people have to beat out their torsion bars.Am I just lucky or is there something missing ? I dont want these things to work out at the dragg strip.Also what is a good new torsion bar to install in a small block Dart.Is there any way to get the camber back after lowering the car about 2 inches ?
You are lucky they just slipped out that easy. There should be a wire clip holding the bars in. I just finished putting my front end together today on this purple P.O.S.
There 'should' have been a little wire spring clip in the rear TB socket on the trans crossover. thats keeps the bars in the socket. and the tension on the bars will keep them from backing out in most cases.
As carl said, there should've been a clip at the rear of the bar to retain it in the socket of the frame. I'll bet that your lower control arm bushing is shot and that's why you didn't have to beat the bar out. A properly installed lower control arm and bushing will have the torsion bars always slightly preloaded no matter how far you undo the adjuster. That's because you don't torque the LCA stub shaft nut until the weight of the car is on the suspension and ride height adjusted. This puts the bushing in a neutral state at ride height. It also puts the bushing in a preloaded state when the suspension is unloaded. That's why the trick of undoing the LCA nut and prying the arm back works because it unloads the bushing.